Learn How To Paint Drywall

August 12th, 2010 by admin | No Comments | Filed in Drywall

Painting drywall is a fairly specialized task but with the right equipment, tools and preparation it is one that can be achieved by nearly anyone. The following steps apply:

1 – Drywalling jobs are best done when the weather is fairly warm and not too humid. Make certain that the surface to be painted is dry, clean, and free from oil and grease. Three coats of a joint compound should be applied to the drywall, and then the joints between panels need to be taped with paper or fiberglass-mesh tape. This ensures the joint gets surfaced over. Fill in any cracks or marks the same way.

2 – Wiping the dust off walls and ceilings before priming may produce a cleaner finish yet from experience, I would suggest a light sanding with fine grade sandpaper (200 grit) after the prime coat has dried. Any imperfections, raised fibers and rough chips get smoothed off with ease. Wearing goggles and a mask is a good idea when drywalling as gypsum dust can be really irritating and in some people has been known to cause breathing problems and eye infections; always dress in sensible protective clothing.

3 – Before painting get out the vacuum cleaner or hand dust out electrical boxes and take care to remove dust above doorway or window trim. As with any painting job, drop cloths should be used to protect finished floors, doors, windows, taps and any other fixtures, 1-mil plastic or “painter’s plastic” is highly recommended.

4 – Do not let the drywall sit too long after being taped and sanded as sunlight can cause the face paper of the drywall to yellow and fade looking uneven after painting. Use a good-quality latex stain-killing paint before priming to combat yellowing.

5 – Three painting techniques commonly used are to apply with a brush, a roller or by spraying. A brush is fine for cutting in around trim and for fiddly areas like corners. Rollers are great for large areas, the bigger the area to be painted the bigger the roller used should be. Roll the top coat across the direction that the primer coat was applied; this promotes evenness for a great finish. Using a sprayer is a faster technique yet the finish achieved doesn’t always look as uniform and consistent as using a paint roller. A better idea is to use a paint-sprayer followed by a second person who rolls the finish. Makes quick work!

6 – Two coats of paint should be adequate. One trick when it comes to priming drywall is to paint the first coat with a low-sheen, latex flat wall paint, tinted to match the color of the top coat. The problem with using standard ‘primers’ or ‘sealers’ or even a good-quality ‘primer-sealer’ is they don’t always adequately cover taped seams and fasteners. You sometimes end up with a bit of a see-through effect which does not look good. It is never a wise idea to skip the first coat as it prepares the surface for the top coat to be applied.

7 – For the top coat, two coatings of a gloss paint (includes satin and eggshell) used for wall surfaces, leaves a finish that is easily washable and not prone to smudges and marks. Bathrooms and kitchens, heavy cleaning areas, are ideal rooms for this. A flat paint is a better option used on the ceiling. A photographing (transparent) effect will be avoided; common with gloss paints.
Take time to prepare your drywall, use good quality painting products and tools and you should end up with an even, impressive-looking finish that will last for years. Consulting a paint specialist at the hardware store before beginning any job will clear up any doubts over which products are the best ones to use. Keep in mind that some jobs may require adjustments to the steps listed in order to achieve the best painting result.

Tags: painting

Wainscoting and Drywall

August 12th, 2010 by admin | No Comments | Filed in Texturing

Although many are unfamiliar with what wainscoting is, it has become a very popular form of wall design or décor. It’s actually been used for over a hundred years, but went “out of style” for many years and recently has come back full force.

What is Wainscoting

Wainscot is paneling of some sort that is used on the lower half of your walls in your home. This paneling may be marble, wood, ceramic tile, heavy fabrics or wood. With more and more homeowners steering towards wood in their homes, wood has become the wainscot of choice for most. Originally, wood wainscoting consisted of wood wagon siding, which was very plentiful in those days.

Wainscoting can be any height the homeowner wants, but it usually goes up to 48 inches or half the height of the wall, sometimes slightly less. The top half of the wall is usually drywall. The wainscoting will usually run vertically with a top edge, or trim, running horizontally.

When wainscot was first used in the mid-nineteenth century, usually tongue and groove boards ran vertically and were nailed down. Some would also have designs created by wood working jigs. Wainscot was used to hide imperfections in the wall as well as joints, but now it is just used for appearance and durability.

There are also many other styles of wainscot besides wood. They began as a fashion statement in dining rooms in the 1900s. They often were as tall as 5 feet or more, were sold as panels 18 to 24 inches wide, and were separated by three-inch moldings. The most popular choice for the wainscot at that time was cloth such as burlap, heavy linen or grasscloth.

Wainscoting now is more popular than ever. Homeowners seem to like change in their home every few years. For many years, drywall was the latest fad. Everyone painted their walls the color of their choice. Then 4′X8′ wood product paneling took over the home decorating world by storm. Every woman wanted to redecorate rooms with paneling. It looked like real wood and was easy to clean and economical to buy. Years later, drywall appeared and, once again, we’re painting our walls.

Suddenly real wood was in style again, but few could afford to do their walls in all wood. Many chose to just do one or two walls in tongue and groove wood. Suddenly the idea of wainscot became the perfect solution. Only doing half a way made it more affordable, still allowing the room to have drywall. It’s considered by many as the best choice and perfect for any room in the house. Another thing that makes it perfect is that it’s easy to maintain. The heaviest traffic areas in your home, between kids and dogs, are the bottom of the walls. Wainscot can easily be wiped clean.

Tags: wainscoting

Drywall Ceiling Water Damage

August 5th, 2010 by admin | No Comments | Filed in Repair

Repairing water damage is never a pleasant prospect, but drywall damage repair is less onerous than repairs to some other materials. Ceiling water damage repair for drywall is rather more complicated than repairs to walls, and presents some extra issues.

First of all is the possibility that enough water may have accumulated behind the ceiling drywall that it presents a danger of collapse. While most modern houses have 5/8″ fire-stop drywall on the ceilings, this can be a blessing or a curse. It is a blessing in that the extra dimension of the material will withstand greater water weight before collapsing catastrophically. On the other hand, if one isn’t able to safely drain out that water before collapse, not only will there be a greater weight and volume of water accumulated, but the extra heavy drywall material itself can present an increased risk of injury to people and things beneath.

Once the source of the ceiling water damage is accounted for, if there is a downward bulge in the ceiling drywall, you will know that there is some amount of accumulated water suspended there. After removing all furnishings and other moveables from the affected area, lay down plastic sheeting to catch the inevitable falling of water and soaked drywall. Obtain a supply of buckets and ideally, a wet/dry vacuum and prepare to catch as much of the water as possible. Pierce the drywall at its lowest point and catch the outflow with the vacuum or in buckets. Once you start, the water will flow until it’s gone, so don’t skimp on the buckets.

Once the immediate danger of collapse is removed, you can proceed with drywall repairs as in repairing wall water damage. However, note that working overhead presents problems not associated with repairing walls.

Drywall is heavy, and the thicker, fire-stop types are the heaviest of all. If you have to replace any area of substantial size, plan to have one or more helpers to hold the patch in place while it’s secured with drywall screws or drywall nails.

Also, take account of the fact that you’ll be working overhead, and some means of reaching the work area will be required. Doing this sort of work can be accomplished on a ladder. However, be aware that working on a ladder on a patch that you can’t reach all of will require trip after trip up and down the ladder. Drywall repairs demand a number of steps, all of which must be done in their own time. A good idea is to buy or rent scaffolding to maximize the amount of area you can work on each trip up and down. It’s safer in the long run, and your knees will thank you when it’s over.

Tags: ceiling repair

The Differences Between Different Types of Drywall

August 4th, 2010 by admin | 2 Comments | Filed in Drywall

Drywall is considered the standard finishing material for interior walls. It consists of an inner core made out of gypsum plaster with a heavy paper cover. Attached to the framing of your walls, drywall covers the insulation, electrical wires, and plumbing. The seams are then covered with drywall tape and compound to create a seamless, smooth appearance. Drywall can be primed, textured, or finished with the design of your choice.

Standard Drywall

The most common variety of drywall is the regular fire-coded 4×8 ft. or 4×12 ft. sheet. It comes in ¼ in., 3/8 in., ½ in., or 5/8 in. widths. The most commonly used board is ½ in., regular fire-coded drywall. You can also use two layers of drywall for added privacy. However, when determining the size, thickness, and type of drywall to use, you’re not restricted to standard drywall. There are specialty varieties available for areas with specific conditions. Here are 3 specialty types to choose from:

Greenboard

Greenboard Drywall

Greenboard has the same gypsum core as other varieties of drywall, but it is covered in a thicker, more water-resistant paper than standard drywall. The green paper is coated with wax to help control moisture absorption. While suitable for use in rooms with high moisture contents, greenboard is not waterproof and will not discourage mold growth. That said, use greenboard on walls that won’t have direct contact with water; but avoid using it on floors or ceilings.

Paperless Drywall

Paperless drywall was developed to help prevent the spread of mold and mildew in the home. Paperless drywall still has the gypsum core, but is wrapped in fiberglass instead of paper. Unlike greenboard, paperless drywall is mold resistant. This is considered its greatest asset. In addition to the fiberglass being moisture resistant, the gypsum core is water resistant as well. As a result, the material works well in bathrooms, basements, and any other rooms with higher moisture content. If also works well in homes that are located in humid climates.

Soundproof Drywall

Soundproof drywall provides a sound barrier comparable to eight layers of standard drywall. Replacing the gypsum core is a combination of viscoelastic polymers, ceramics, and gypsum layered to produce amazing soundproof qualities.

The effectiveness of soundproof drywall is measured by sound transmission class levels (STC). Depending on how much you are willing to pay, the panels come as low as 40 STCs and reach up into the 70s. Use soundproof drywall can be used in any room throughout your home where you would like additional privacy, but keep in mind that it is about four times more expensive to purchase than standard drywall.

Tags: drywall

Learn How to Drywall

August 4th, 2010 by admin | No Comments | Filed in Drywall

If you want to learn how to drywall it can be a tricky process but fortunately learning how to install drywall is never as hard as people may say. You will want to learn how to do it right so finishing drywall is not a huge chore for you. Make sure you have the right drywall equipment before your start the project. This will all depend on where you want to install the drywall and how large a surface area you are working on.

The first step is to sand down your walls and make the surface smooth. You should use a rag or cloth to get rid of sand after you are down so the wall is clear and white. Never skip this step. You should have the wall smooth and totally washed before you do the drywall process. You should follow all instructions from the dry wall kit to get a great finish.

You will not plaster any holes that are visible and you can use a putty trial and a scraper to do this. You may also need joint putty and a patch. Depending on the size of the hole you might need to put down another layer of plaster on the area. You will have to repeat this procedure twice until you get the wall totally smooth.

Follow all the steps in the drywall kit and you will be ready with your wall. Once you do that step you can get your paint brushes out and ready to go. You should pick the right tools and paint for your project and this will help you get a better finished look. Move the furniture away from the walls for the whole process and then you can move them back after you are done with the paint job. You’ll want to spruce up your whole home with curtains, furniture and any other home décor ideas you may have.

More than difficult, dry walling takes patience and time. You might want to consider other options besides drywall to improve your walls depending on what they need. If you need you can just cover the areas that are falling apart by putting up lining or you can try to cover up areas that need to be covered. Figure out what way will save you the most time and money in the process. You might be able to make simple repairs to your walls rather than redoing the whole thing. If you have serious issues with the walls like rotting or mold then you might want to call in an expert to do the job right. You also want to avoid breathing anything dangerous during this time. Make sure you do the job right no matter how you do it.

Tags: drywall

Eliminate and Remove Drywall Mold

August 3rd, 2010 by admin | No Comments | Filed in Drywall

Would you know what to look for if you had mold in your home? Sure it’s easy to spot that green fungi growing on your sandwich bread, but what about the black stuff that can appear on places like drywall. If you’re seeing black spots that look similar to the green stuff, you’ve got a serious problem!

Not only is that black fungus an ugly sight, it can also be very dangerous! While all molds should be eliminated immediately, most aren’t as harmful as the black mold. If you even suspect it’s lurking on your walls or anywhere else in your home, you need to remove it immediately. Drywall mold is a serious matter.

Before doing so however, you need to protect yourself. Why? Because breathing in the stuff can be poisonous to your body. It can cause respiratory problems, bleeding of the lungs, headaches, dizziness, nausea and other serious health problems. So, before you get started, be sure to invest in a pair of rubber gloves, eye goggles and a respirator mask.

Your next step is to seal off the contaminated room to prevent fungus spores from becoming airborne while you work. You can use a plastic sheet and duct tape to seal off the area or room. Next you will need to determine how much damage there is. It’s really not uncommon for fungus to spread to other nearby areas. Check the surrounding walls, floor and the ceiling.

Now here’s the bad news. There’s no way to save this type of a moldy wall. This is because the material cannot be penetrated below the area surface, which means any fungus below the surface cannot be removed. So instead of trying to disinfect the problem area, you must cut the area out using a utility knife. Once you have removed the affected area, you’ll need to dispose of it in a sealed trash bag and remove it from your home.

Next, you’ll need to clean the surrounding areas using a product that is specifically designed to remove molds. Use a light touch to prevent surface damage and avoid using bleach. While some may recommend using a bleach solution it’s not advisable because it cannot penetrate below the area’s surface.

Your next step will be to dry the areas thoroughly. If you don’t, you will risk allowing molds to re-grow on the wet surfaces. Once you have completely dried the area and have eliminated all traces of the dangerous fungus, you can patch the surface where you removed the affected area.

On a final note, if you find that a rather large area of drywall is affected by mold, your best solution would be to hire a professional drywall contractor and have the entire wall replaced. While this may seem like a costly solution, please try to remember that your health is more important than your bank account. Stay safe, always!

Tags: mold

Proper Drywall Taping Techniques and Supplies

August 3rd, 2010 by admin | No Comments | Filed in Drywall

Proper Drywall Taping

If you’re in the process of improving your home, there’s a good chance you’ll need to learn to tape drywall. It can be a pretty intimidating process if you don’t know what you’re doing, but it’s really extremely easy. Even kids can manage to tape drywall successfully. Here’s a look at all the drywall supplies and techniques you’ll need to do the job right.

Remember that taping can take a surprisingly long time. It’s not hard, but sometimes it takes up to three times as long as hanging the sheets. Taping gives the room a more professional, attractive look, and can help reduce the lumps and problems in your wall. If you don’t feel like you’re up to it, talk to a professional to do the job for you. It might be worth the investment for renovators who don’t have a lot of time, or aren’t confident in their accuracy.

The most important drywall supplies for this job are joint compound (“drywall mud”), drywall tape (a non-gummed paper tape) and a drywall knife of the right size. Make sure you get coarse and fine grit sandpaper for finishing, too. For large projects, an electric sander may be appropriate. The right supplies will help you make sure that you do a truly professional job.

Step one of the process involves applying compound over every joint in the drywall. This is usually done in three layers. Allow the compound to completely dry between layers, and sand it smooth before applying another one. It’s generally a good idea to apply the compound as smoothly and evenly as you can.

While you can sand it back down later, it takes more energy and is a waste of materials to do it this way. Good drywall contractors need to do almost no sanding between layers. You probably won’t get results that good as an amateur, but do your best.

Once you’ve sanded the third layer of compound, it’s time to tape. The joints will be covered with drywall tape over a layer of compound. It can take a little practice to get the tape up smoothly and straight, but the tape can be repositioned as long as the compound is wet.

Once you’ve put the tape on, smooth the tape with your knife. The excess compound will be squeezed out from under the edges of the tape, and can be removed from the knife. Finish by spreading a very thin layer of mud on top of the tape. You should be able to see the tape through it. Once everything is dry, use your sandpaper to smooth any bumps or rough edges. Start with the coarse paper, and then blend the joint into the wall with the fine paper for a professional look.

Tags: drywall taping

Makita BFS450 Cordless Drywall Screwdriver Review

August 3rd, 2010 by admin | 1 Comment | Filed in Drywall Tools

Vanished are the days of utilizing large and immense power tools to do the easiest projects. In comes the latest generation of power tools from Makita. For example, the Makita BFS450 Cordless Drywall Screwdriver Kit, which has a very condensed structure. It is just 10.5 inches in size and weighs a sheer 4.2lbs. Because this tool is light weight and portable you’re able to use it anywhere. With this device you do not have to stress about getting hurt, as it has several basic safety features built in.

It functions on a LXT Lithium-Ion battery which can run for long periods of time between charges. The battery is produced with 16 holding contact terminals that enable you to employ its power for optimum functionality.

The 30-minute Rapid Optimum Charger is the suitable partner for the LXT Lithium-Ion battery. The Makita BFS450 Cordless Drywall Screwdriver Kit arrives with an internal fan that cools your battery every time you charge it, therefore extending its life span. In addition, this charger has earned the ENERGY STAR tag because it is very reliable, energy saving and useful.

There is no need for a flashlight when using this tool given that it has a L.E.D. light already built in. Do not be concerned about those painstaking jobs; due to the fact the Makita BFS450 has an extra fine depth modification ring that also comes with the unit.

The Makita BFS450 is manufactured to be incredibly safe to use. One of its safest features is its simple, spongy grip handle. It meets all hand sizes beautifully, so there is no need to be concerned about your hand grasping the handle.

The Makita BFS450 Cordless Drywall Screwdriver Kit comes with a new silent clutch which greatly lowers the noise level. If all the above does not demonstrate how great this device really is, it also comes with a builder bag and a tool belt clip for easy transport.

Tags: drywall screwdriver

Repair a Drywall Hole the Easy Way

July 27th, 2010 by admin | 1 Comment | Filed in Repair

It may sound funny, but you may end up with holes in your drywall by simply hammering a nail with too much sense of responsibility and determination. Drywall is made of gypsum and paper, so it does make sense for this to happen. A while ago, repairing this would have asked for removing a section of wallboard between two studs. Now there are solutions that make the problem simpler to fix, like using mesh patches to cover small diameter holes. A patch has a sticky back that will adhere to the surrounding surface and its size can be up to 8 square inches.

These are the items you will use to fix the hole: an utility knife, sanding block, a mesh wall patch that is about 2 times the area of the hole, joint compound, tray that will hold it, a 4″ or wider putty knife and a sponge.

Since a lot of dust may be raised, cover the floor and the surrounding area with newspaper before you start the job. The surface where the patch will be placed needs special preparation: cut any hanging bits with the utility knife and sand the edges with sandpaper or sanding block. Be careful not to make the hole bigger during this procedure. The mesh patch is covered with backing paper that you will peel off before centering the patch over the hole. After centering it, smooth the edges. Put the joint compound in the tray and then apply it over the patch and beyond its borders, using the putty knife. You will use the tray instead of getting the compound right out of its container so that you don’t allow the entire quantity to dry while keeping the lid off during work. You will then smooth the compound with moves from top to bottom and from one corner to another. It will take about 8 hours for the compound to dry. Sand the dried surface with sandpaper, 80-100 grit. Sponge the area to wipe the dust off. A second coat of compound will be applied and smoothed. After it is dry, sand the area with a fine sandpaper, 120-150 grit. Clean up and then prime and paint to finish the job and obtain a nice looking wall.

Tags: drywall hole

Do It Yourself (DIY) Drywalling

July 20th, 2010 by admin | No Comments | Filed in Drywall, Installation Tips

Do It Yourself (DIY) Drywall

Handy homeowners who want to install their own drywall to finish basements or attics will benefit from a few basic tips before beginning this project. The first step should always be to check with local building codes to ensure that the drywall used is the appropriate thickness for the area. Measuring is another important step to ensure that the amount of drywall purchased will be the correct amount for the area requiring coverage.

Along with the drywall itself, it is also important to purchase enough supplies. This might include approximately seven pounds of nails, five gallons of joint compound and 500 feet of tape for 1000 square feet of drywall installed. When in doubt about how much to buy, it is always wise to consult with a professional at the store who can offer assistance with measuring and purchasing.

Once the correct amount of drywall is purchased and delivered, it will be time to begin the installation process. Many find that putting the drywall up is the easy part; taping the joints becomes infinitely more complex, however. In fact, some find that hiring a professional to apply the tape after the drywall is installed is a more cost-effective way to get a professional finish on a drywall project.

In this instance, the homeowner puts the drywall in place and fastens it to the frame with nails or screws specifically designed for this material. The professional contractor then comes in to tape the joints and provide any other repairs or installation as needed.

Drywall is an essential part of finishing a space in the home. Understanding how to purchase and install the material will help keep the drywall cost down for many homeowners.

Tags: diy

Drywall Hanging